Expedition to Pobeda peak (H-7439). Classical route via Dikhiy pass for 2012
Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 15 th of July and 5 th of September
Pobeda Peak is a tough mountain. Firstly, it is world's ultimate northern mountain of seven-odd thousand metres high (“seventhousander”). Secondly, meteorological conditions of the region are so unpredictable and severe that it deservingly gave a peak a nick-name of “Treacherous Corner”. Even in the summer time, as a bolt from the blue, a snow storm may burst out here - with the winds blowing at 150km/h and nil visibility - and then, again all of a sudden, it may stop. In winter this region is even more severe. And there is nothing for mountaineer to do here in the winter time. Only once, over nearly 70-years long history of exploration, in 1990, mountaineers got to the top of Pobeda in winter, after which event half of the expedition members had to spend quite a time at Sklifasovsky hospital in Moscow, and, as you can guess, not at all for having a rest there.
Till up to 1969, the number of those who succeeded and stayed alive and those who died on the peak was nearly equal. Only after 1969 mountaineers have outscored the deadly statistics. But it does not mean that the mountain has become easier to climb. It is all just about better tactics and some other novelties that helped the case. Of course, more advanced contemporary gear contributed to that, too. Nonetheless, it happens nearly every season that somebody dies in the area – either of falling down or of altitude sickness or of hypothermia. Most often it happens due to human mistakes and stupidity . Still such objective hazards as avalanches and bad weather should not be discarded, too.
The Base of the program – 29 days
1 Day. Arrival to Bishkek. Meet in the airport, transfer to hotel, accommodation in the hotel, overnight.
2 Day. Breakfast. Transfer: Bishkek – Karkara BC ( 460 km ). Accommodation in Karkara BC
3 Day. Helicopter flight to South Inylchek BC ( 4000 m asl).
4 Day. Acclimatization and preparation for ascending.
5 Day. Acclimatization and preparation for ascending.
6 Day. Camp I (H-4200).
7 Day. Camp II (H-5100).
8 Day. Camp III (H-5800).
9 Day. Descent to Base Camp
10 Day. In the Base Camp
11 Day. In the Base Camp
12 Day. Camp I
13 Day. Camp II
14 Day. Camp III
15 Day. Camp IV (H-6400)
16 Day. Descent to Base Camp.
17 Day. In the Base Camp
18 Day. In the Base Camp
19 Day. In the Base Camp
20 Day . Camp ¹ I (H-4200)
21 Day. Camp ¹ III (H-5800)
22 Day. Camp ¹ IV (H-6400)
23 Day. Camp ¹ V (H-6918)
24 Day. Ascension and descend to Camp V
25 Day . Descend to camp ¹ I
26 Day. Descend to Base Camp
27 Day. Helicopter flight to Karkara Base Camp. Transfer and accommodation in Bishkek.
28 Day . Free day in Bishkek.
Day 29. Transfer to the airport and departure from Bishkek.
The price of a full package in 2011 is Euro 1400 per/pax.
Full package includes:
- Meeting and seeing at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
- transfer airport in Bishkek – hotel - airport in Bishkek;
- transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
- helicopter flight to BC and back;
- unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
- accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!);
- accommodation in double tents with fullboard at BC “South Inylchek“;
- free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
- consultancy service of local guide;
- consultancy of doctor;
- registration with local Rescue Party;
- ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
- usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
- rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
- usage of fixed ropes on the route;
- change of air-flight and railway tickets;
- frontier zone permit;
- official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);
The price of a small package is Euro 800 per\pax.
Small package includes:
- helicopter flight to BC and back (it's permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 3 EURO/kg);
- free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
- consultancy service of local guide;
- consultancy of doctor;
- registration with local Rescue Party;
- ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
- usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
- rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
- usage of fixed ropes on the route;
- change of air-flight and railway tickets;
- frontier zone permit;
- official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);
The cost for both packages does not include:
- The price of Kyrgyz visa;
-
International flight;
-
All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
- Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
- All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
- The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;
- The rent of mountaineering equipment
Guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment :
The guide services:
For 1 person – Euro 1800
For 2 persons – Euro 1000 per\pax
For 3 persons – Euro 750 per/pax
Additional services:
Rent of tents for high camps – Euro 50 per program
Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – Euro 6 per one cartridge
International call by satellite telephone – Euro 3/min
The schedule of helicopter flights:
In July – 8,12, 15, 19, 22, 26, 29
In August - 2, 5, 8, 11, 16, 19, 22, 25, 30
In September – 5
The list of items, which will be of a use:
• 1. The garments, footwear - a standard high-altitude set
• 2. The Camp gear - a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
• 3. The climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
• 4. High-altitude foodstuff
